Exploring the Ancient Fortresses of Khorezm in Karakalpakstan
When most travelers think of Karakalpakstan, the Aral Sea’s ecological disaster often comes to mind. However, this region in Uzbekistan holds another treasure: the ancient fortresses of Khorezm. These historical sites offer a fascinating glimpse into a bygone era, where fortresses stood as bastions against nomadic invasions.
The Historical Significance of Khorezm Fortresses
The fortresses, known locally as “qalas,” were constructed primarily from unburnt clay bricks, giving them a sandcastle-like appearance. Despite their fragile look, these structures have withstood the test of time, some dating back nearly 2,500 years. They served as defensive strongholds until the 13th century when Genghis Khan’s forces devastated the region. Today, they stand as silent witnesses to a rich history, largely untouched by modern tourism.
Notable Fortresses to Visit
Among the many fortresses, three stand out for their historical and architectural significance:
- Ayaz-Kala: Built around the 4th century BC, this fortress offers stunning views from its hilltop perch. It’s a testament to the strategic importance of these structures in ancient times.
- Toprak-Kala: Dating back to the 1st century AD, this site is remarkably well-preserved. Visitors can explore remnants of palaces, temples, and residential areas, providing insights into the lives of its ancient inhabitants.
- Koy-Krylgan-Kala: Known for its unique circular design, this fortress showcases the advanced engineering skills of the Khorezmians. Its maze-like corridors are a marvel of ancient architecture.
Planning Your Visit
Timing your visit is crucial due to the region’s extreme temperatures. The best months to explore are April to May and September to October, when the weather is mild. During these periods, the surrounding landscapes burst into color with blooming flowers and lush greenery.
Getting There
Reaching the fortresses is relatively straightforward:
- By Air: Fly into Urgench International Airport, then hire a taxi or take a local bus for the 30-minute journey to the fortresses.
- By Train: Trains to Khiva offer a comfortable travel option, with a short drive from there to the fortresses.
- By Bus: Budget travelers can opt for buses connecting major Uzbek cities to the Khorezm region. From the nearest city, taxis or local buses can take you to the fortresses.
Local Transportation
Once in the area, you’ll need reliable transportation to explore the spread-out fortresses:
- Taxis: Available in nearby towns, taxis can be hired for a day. Negotiate fares in advance.
- Renting a Car: For more flexibility, rent a car in nearby cities to explore at your own pace.
- Local Buses: An affordable option, though less frequent. Check schedules to plan your visit.
Experiencing the Local Culture
For a deeper cultural experience, consider staying at the “Ayaz-Kala” yurt camp. Opened in 1998, this camp offers a taste of nomadic life. The yurts, sourced from Kazakhstan, provide a unique lodging experience with basic comforts like a real toilet and hot showers. The camp uses solar panels for electricity, and water is brought in by cisterns. Sleeping on mattresses on the floor, you’ll find the felt yurts regulate temperature well, ensuring a comfortable night’s rest.
Meals are simple yet generous, served in a communal yurt. Besides exploring the fortresses, you can enjoy camel rides and stargazing under the clear desert sky, where the Milky Way is visible in all its glory.
While the fortresses themselves are not commercialized, meaning no entrance fees or security, this also means exploring them is at your own risk. The lack of infrastructure might be a downside for some, but it adds to the authenticity of the experience.
