Discovering Deir Mar Musa: A Journey to Syria’s Monastic Community
In 2008, I embarked on an unforgettable journey to Deir Mar Musa, a monastery perched on a mountain between Damascus and Homs in Syria. This unique place, dedicated to St. Moses the Abyssinian, offers a rare blend of history, spirituality, and community. Here’s a firsthand account of my experience and some practical tips for those considering a visit.
Getting There
Reaching Deir Mar Musa is an adventure. From Damascus, my friend Caroline and I took a bus to the town of Nabk, about 80 kilometers north. From there, a taxi navigated the rocky terrain to drop us at the base of a long flight of steps leading up the mountain. The final ascent on foot took about 20 minutes, with the monastery’s windows peeking out from the cliffside above.
The Monastery’s Rich History
Deir Mar Musa is a testament to resilience and faith. Originally a Byzantine monastery, it was revived in the 1980s by Father Paolo Dall’Oglio, an Italian Jesuit monk. He envisioned it as a center for interfaith dialogue and community living, welcoming Syrian-Catholic and Syrian-Orthodox monks. The monastery’s chapel, adorned with 11th-century frescoes, speaks to its layered history.
Life at the Monastery
Staying at Deir Mar Musa is a communal experience. Visitors, including families, academics, and travelers from around the world, contribute to daily life by preparing meals and cleaning. The atmosphere is one of warmth and inclusion, with everyone pitching in to maintain the monastery’s operations.
Despite the scarcity of resources, the community thrives on simplicity and cooperation. Water is precious, so conservation is key. Meals are shared, and the food, though simple, is nourishing and delicious. The monastery offers free accommodation, but guests are encouraged to participate in chores.
Reflecting and Connecting
Deir Mar Musa is a place for reflection and connection. The serene environment, far removed from the chaos of modern life, provides a perfect backdrop for meditation and contemplation. At night, the silence is profound, offering a rare opportunity to disconnect and ponder life’s bigger questions.
During my stay, I found myself contemplating the role of religion and the diversity of faiths. The monastery’s commitment to interfaith dialogue fosters an environment where such reflections are encouraged and shared.
Exploring the Surroundings
The natural beauty surrounding Deir Mar Musa is striking. The desert landscape, though harsh, bursts into color with wildflowers in the spring. Hiking trails offer stunning views of the valley and the distant mountains. Climbing the hills behind the monastery provides a panoramic view of the area, especially breathtaking at sunrise.
Final Thoughts
My time at Deir Mar Musa was transformative. The monastery’s blend of history, spirituality, and community left a lasting impression. While the ongoing conflict in Syria is heartbreaking, I hold hope for peace and the chance to return one day. For those seeking a unique and meaningful travel experience, Deir Mar Musa offers a rare glimpse into a world of faith, history, and human connection.
