Discovering Itá Letra: A Journey into Paraguay’s Ancient Past
Traveling through Paraguay, I found myself drawn to the enigmatic site of Itá Letra, located in the Ybytyruzú mountain range. This archaeological site, known for its ancient petroglyphs, is about 20 kilometers southeast of Villarrica, a city that serves as a gateway to this historical wonder. The site, also referred to as Cerro Polilla, offers a unique glimpse into the past, with carvings that have puzzled historians and archaeologists alike.
The Enigma of Itá Letra
Itá Letra, meaning “Stone Letter” in Guaraní, is a collection of petroglyphs etched into the rocks of Cerro Ybytyruzú. These carvings are believed to date back thousands of years, with some estimates suggesting origins as far back as 5,000 BC. While early theories speculated about Viking origins, these have been debunked. Instead, the carvings are thought to be the work of pre-Columbian cultures, possibly serving as astronomical markers or spiritual symbols.
Among the petroglyphs, you’ll find depictions of constellations, native animals, and abstract symbols. Some carvings are older than others, with the oldest believed to represent celestial bodies and native fauna. The younger symbols, dating to around 2,500 BC, remain a mystery, adding to the site’s allure.
Getting There
Reaching Itá Letra requires a bit of planning. From Asunción, Paraguay’s capital, you can drive approximately 160 kilometers southeast to Villarrica. The journey takes about 3 to 4 hours via Route 2 to Coronel Oviedo, then Route 8 to Villarrica. Once in Villarrica, a local guide or a 4×4 vehicle is recommended to navigate the rural trails leading to the site.
If you prefer public transport, buses run regularly from Asunción to Villarrica. Upon arrival, you’ll need to arrange local transportation, such as a taxi or guide service, to reach Itá Letra.
Exploring Itá Letra and Its Surroundings
Itá Letra is not a developed tourist site, so come prepared. Bring water, snacks, and sturdy hiking shoes, as there are no facilities on-site. A local guide is invaluable, offering insights into the carvings and ensuring you stay on the right path.
The surrounding Ybytyruzú mountain range is a haven for nature lovers. Hiking trails wind through lush forests, leading to breathtaking waterfalls like Salto Suizo, one of Paraguay’s highest. The area is perfect for birdwatching and offers panoramic views of the countryside.
When to Visit
The best time to explore Itá Letra is during the dry season, from April to September. Trails are more accessible, and the weather is generally pleasant. The rainy season, from October to March, can make paths muddy and challenging, though the landscape is particularly verdant during this time.
Accommodations
Villarrica offers a range of accommodations, from simple guesthouses to small hotels. For those seeking a closer connection to nature, eco-lodges and rural stays are available in the Ybytyruzú area. While camping near Itá Letra isn’t officially developed, arrangements can be made with guides or local property owners for a more immersive experience.
Final Thoughts
Visiting Itá Letra is a journey into the heart of Paraguay’s ancient history. While it lacks the amenities of more commercial tourist destinations, it offers something far more valuable: a chance to connect with the past and experience the serene beauty of the Paraguayan wilderness. If you’re ready for an adventure off the beaten path, Itá Letra awaits.
