My husband and I spent ten days exploring the beaches of Tortola, and on the sixth day, we stumbled upon Smuggler’s Cove. It quickly became our favorite spot, so much so that we returned on our last day. This beach, located on the western edge of the island, is a bit tricky to find. The road is unpaved and full of potholes, but the journey is worth it. Our GPS was a lifesaver.
Discovering Smuggler’s Cove
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a stretch of sugar-white sand and turquoise water. The beach was nearly empty, offering a serene escape. The cove is protected and shallow, making it perfect for swimming and floating. While my husband tried snorkeling, he found the marine life sparse, despite the presence of reefs on either side.
Beach Amenities and Local Flavors
Two beach bars, Patricia’s and Nigel’s, are situated near the entrance. They offer lounge chairs and umbrellas, which were free during our visit, though this might change in busier seasons. Both bars operate on a cash-only basis, so come prepared. We preferred Patricia’s for her comfortable chairs and excellent cocktails. Her Smuggler’s Punch and Painkiller are must-tries.
On our first visit, we brought sandwiches from The French Deli, unsure if the bars served food. The aroma of grilling made us regret not trying the local offerings. On our return, we sampled Patricia’s fish and shrimp tacos, which were delightful. She also serves burgers, chicken sandwiches, and ribs. We didn’t try Nigel’s, so I can’t comment on his menu.
Getting There and Practical Tips
Smuggler’s Cove is about a 30 to 40-minute drive from the cruise port. We hired a taxi for $30 per person round trip, arranging a pickup time in advance. The beach has basic amenities, including a small bar, restrooms, and umbrella rentals for $24. The water is crystal clear, but the entry is rocky, so water shoes are advisable. The only restroom is a porta john, with no handwashing facilities.
Why Smuggler’s Cove Stands Out
Smuggler’s Cove was our favorite beach on Tortola. Its remote location and challenging access likely deter large crowds, especially those without four-wheel-drive vehicles. It’s unlikely that cruise lines shuttle visitors here, adding to its secluded charm. If you’re seeking a tranquil escape, this beach is a perfect choice.
